Not sure if this has been discussed before, but if you have a Riveted Aluminum boat and the rivets are getting loose and leaking water, It’s a fairly simple repair with the right tools.
Tools needed: 1/2” Drill bit, Pneumatic Impact tool, Brazier Rivet Head Set tool that fits into the Impact. A bucking bar which deforms the shank of the rivet inside the boat while using the Impact on the dome side of the rivet, rivets and either 3M 5200 or Marine Goop. And...A Helper.
To remove the old rivets, I like to center punch the dome side of the rivet, use a large bit 1/2” or larger, have someone grip the deformed side of the old rivet and drill the head until you break through. Go easy so you don’t drill through the Jon Boat. Then tap the old rivet shank out.
To find the correct aluminum rivet length for bucking, add the total thickness of the material to 1.5 times the rivet diameter. This calculation ensures enough material protrudes from the joint to form a proper shop head, which should be about 1.5 times the original rivet diameter.
Steps to Determine Rivet Length
Determine the Total Material Thickness (T): Measure the combined thickness of all the aluminum sheets you need to join.
Measure the Rivet Diameter (D): Select the appropriate diameter for your application, keeping in mind the material thickness and required strength.
Calculate the Required Length: Use the formula: Rivet Length = T + (1.5 x D).
To install, I like to put some sealer on the rivet head where it makes contact with the boat first. Insert the rivet. If the hole in the boat is wallowed out or you want extra strength, you can add an aluminum washer to the shank side of the rivet but obviously that requires a longer rivet and should be accounted for in the above determination.
To buck the rivet and deform the shank, one person will need to hold the impact tool with the head set firmly against the dome side. The other person will hold the solid metal bucking tool firmly against the rivet shank. When ready, engage the impact tool and the person pushing down on the bucking tool will deform the shank. Practicing first will help get the hang of it. It’s important to keep the Bucking tool level against the shank to get an even deformation and tight joint. Most of the time you will buck it, check for tightness and repeat until you have a solid joint. If you don’t like the shape of the deformed rivet, just drill it out as above and repeat. The sealant will ensure that the joints don’t leak even if it’s not a perfect set.
I re-riveted 20 rivets on my 1970 Ouachita 3 years ago and it is water tight to this day.
I will be happy to lend these tools out if anyone wants to try some repairs.
Sep 19 2025
Charles Bodden
Fry
Member Since :
2021
Number of Posts :
10
Not sure if this has been discussed before, but if you have a Riveted Aluminum boat and the rivets are getting loose and leaking water, It’s a fairly simple repair with the right tools.
Tools needed: 1/2” Drill bit, Pneumatic Impact tool, Brazier Rivet Head Set tool that fits into the Impact. A bucking bar which deforms the shank of the rivet inside the boat while using the Impact on the dome side of the rivet, rivets and either 3M 5200 or Marine Goop. And...A Helper.
To remove the old rivets, I like to center punch the dome side of the rivet, use a large bit 1/2” or larger, have someone grip the deformed side of the old rivet and drill the head until you break through. Go easy so you don’t drill through the Jon Boat. Then tap the old rivet shank out.
To find the correct aluminum rivet length for bucking, add the total thickness of the material to 1.5 times the rivet diameter. This calculation ensures enough material protrudes from the joint to form a proper shop head, which should be about 1.5 times the original rivet diameter.
Steps to Determine Rivet Length
Determine the Total Material Thickness (T): Measure the combined thickness of all the aluminum sheets you need to join.
Measure the Rivet Diameter (D): Select the appropriate diameter for your application, keeping in mind the material thickness and required strength.
Calculate the Required Length: Use the formula: Rivet Length = T + (1.5 x D).
To install, I like to put some sealer on the rivet head where it makes contact with the boat first. Insert the rivet. If the hole in the boat is wallowed out or you want extra strength, you can add an aluminum washer to the shank side of the rivet but obviously that requires a longer rivet and should be accounted for in the above determination.
To buck the rivet and deform the shank, one person will need to hold the impact tool with the head set firmly against the dome side. The other person will hold the solid metal bucking tool firmly against the rivet shank. When ready, engage the impact tool and the person pushing down on the bucking tool will deform the shank. Practicing first will help get the hang of it. It’s important to keep the Bucking tool level against the shank to get an even deformation and tight joint. Most of the time you will buck it, check for tightness and repeat until you have a solid joint. If you don’t like the shape of the deformed rivet, just drill it out as above and repeat. The sealant will ensure that the joints don’t leak even if it’s not a perfect set.
I re-riveted 20 rivets on my 1970 Ouachita 3 years ago and it is water tight to this day.
I will be happy to lend these tools out if anyone wants to try some repairs.